Daily-Dose

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From New Yorker

From Vox

A woman picks through the wares at Melrose Trading Post wearing the high-waisted mom jeans that many young people are wearing.
The campus of Fairfax High School looms over the weekly market’s layout, providing its own vintage look to the proceedings.

Gen Z-ers making up the bulk of their wardrobe with secondhand items isn’t uncommon. Before catching a film across the street, Mackenzie Dobias and her boyfriend decided to kill some time checking out the vendors. She estimates that 60 percent of her closet is a mix-match assortment of thrifted items, including the pants and top she’s wearing. “My jeans, I got on Depop,” Mackenzie says before motioning to her blouse, which she got at a shop in Long Beach that she calls “selective.”

Later that bright and blistering Sunday — which also happened to be the 4th of July — I run into a group of teens and young adults shopping in a tent full of pastel-colored crop tops and tiny bodycon dresses. Visiting from Texas, Hannah Ruch made a pilgrimage to the Post with her boyfriend, Mason Cook and his sister, Georgia Cook. “It’s our anniversary, so I’m looking for a dress for dinner,” she says. “I’m from Texas, so the style there is a lot different. I usually just wear sweatpants and a shirt. I’m trying to change it up.”

However geographically or aesthetically boundless this generation’s style might seem, today’s youth fashion is still not without its key influences. While past generations might have looked to Vogue or MTV for inspiration, today’s youth draw from the kinetic network of social media.

“I used to go to a school where people were just extremely judgmental, so I kind of just wore whatever,” says Georgia Cook. “Once I started homeschooling, that’s when I discovered a style that I actually liked, like Emma Chamberlain’s style, and those kinds of people. After I figured that out, then I started to really get into thrifting.” Emma Chamberlain is a 20-year-old YouTuber whose eclectic fashion sense and expansive catalogue of diary entry-esque videos have propelled her into a stratosphere that most social media stars aspire to. Among her uploaded content includes videos titled “Epic Thrift Haul” and “How To Look Cute on Your Period,” along with baggy jeans-clad outfit pics complete with Doc Martens and ’90s-era claw clips.

While the early aughts and the 1990s reign as the two primary eras young fashion lovers have embraced, earlier decades have their fair share of fans. Mason, an actor originally from Oklahoma, was looking to add a pair of bell-bottoms to his closet: “It gives me vibes of the Beatles, like early ’70s. Bell-bottom jeans with Chelsea boots and maybe a blazer.” It’s in stark contrast to the Golf Wang trucker jacket, beaded necklace, and Doc Martens he’s wearing while we talk. “Most of the time I’m wearing streetwear, but if I’m feeling like I want to get dressed up a little bit, I might go for bell-bottoms and Chelsea boots.”

Blaine is a college student from Pomona, but he’s also a student of the internet. From his bucket hat to his loose-fitting Dickies cargo pants, each component of his outfit represents a pointed choice — much of which was sourced from vintage stores. He’s also hyper-specific about his inspirations, many of them ’90s heatthrobs, with Brad Pitt, Leonardo DiCaprio, and resident internet zaddy Jeff Goldblum among his top three fashion icons.

But it’s the SoCal-meets-gangster-infused stylings of Baz Luhrmann’s 1996 revival of Romeo and Juliet that gets him, specifically: “I watched it during my freshman year of high school and ever since then I was like, I want to dress like that.” The influence is apparent in Blaine’s choice of an oversized short-sleeved button down, styled ever so slightly to reveal a white shirt underneath. “I like to mix preppy but make it more comfortable with sneakers instead of dress shoes.”

Like a lot of the young people I meet at Melrose Trading Post, one key segue into shopping vintage for Blaine was through his parents. “I listened to a lot of old hip hop and R&B that my parents listened to,” he said. “So I watched the music videos, and saw all the styles, and decided that’s what I like to emulate; a lot of social media I follow revolves around clothes.”

Presley Farzam, 17, shows off a slew of rings at Melrose. He shopped with a few friends on the Fourth of July.
Ariana Morena, 19, left, and Donyea Martin, 23, both dancers, pose at Melrose Trading Post on a recent Sunday. Ariana, who just graduated, says she made her own top from an old T-shirt and thrifted her pants.

Launched as a companion social network to Simon Beckerman’s Pig magazine — an independent glossy dedicated to the happenings of youth subculture — in 2011, Depop now occupies a substantial chunk of the resale market. This summer, its craftier e-rival Etsy bought the company for a whopping $1.6 billion, and Depop’s 2020 revenues exceeded $70 million, with gross merchandise sales reportedly hitting $650 million.

Chloe Levine, a 16-year-old seasoned thrifter, uses Depop to gauge which hot items are worth hunting for. It’s where she follows social media personality and model Devon Lee Carlson, the inspiration behind her bedazzled trucker hat and baggy shorts. “I love ’90s movies, and TikTok is huge for fashion,” she tells me.

With approximately 90 percent of Depop’s 30 million users age 26 and under, e-commerce-first bazaars are integral instruments for which the resale market thrives. But as Mason, the young actor I met at the Post, points out, there are advantages to getting in the trenches to source clothing on the ground. “Sometimes you can’t tell from the picture because everything’s different. Coming in person is a lot better because you get a better idea and feel if you like it, and see it in person. Sometimes colors are brighter. So I would definitely choose this or that.”

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Chloe Levine, a 16-year-old seasoned thrifter, in a bedazzled trucker hat and baggy shorts inspired by a favorite social media influencer.

The secondhand clothing market addresses the needs of an opinionated and tech-savvy generation in a way that corporate sellers and the mall ecosystem have yet to capture. The issue of sustainability as a linchpin for favoring secondhand was a topic that bubbled up several times when speaking with young shoppers at the market. They’re well informed and full of thoughts on the threat the rapid fashion cycle poses to our planet — more so than the average middle-aged adult.

The frenzy for colossal retail space and flashy architectural flagships is now making way for small-scale communal pop-ups with marketing language like “curated” and “vintage.” It’s becoming apparent that the veneer of brand new has lost its luster; kids like their clothes broken in and aged like a full-bodied glass of cabernet sauvignon.

Before Mason took up sourcing 10-year-old Dickies and secondhand work boots, he admits, “I was not happy with my style. I felt like it was lacking. I enjoyed expressing myself through what I wore and I wasn’t really doing that.” He likes the mythology attached to each piece of pre-worn finds that fill places like Melrose Trading Post.

“It’s kind of funny that I can come here and find something that I wouldn’t be able to find anywhere else; something that would probably be one of a kind and has meaning to it. You get a little bit more appreciation for it.”

Hannah Ruch, 19, poses to show off her nail art, tank top, and necklace in pearls and candy-colored hues.

Indya Brown is a fashion writer, stylist, and market editor at Who What Wear. She was fashion editor at New York magazine’s The Cut.

But the IRS is fundamentally a collection agency. It knows how to take, and how to refund if it takes too much, but when it comes to doling out benefits like stimulus checks and child tax credits, the onus is on individual Americans to advocate for what they are owed if the agency doesn’t already have their information.

That’s the case for many poor families. In 2020, a single parent with a dependent child had to earn at least $18,650 to be required to file taxes. Some households with lower incomes file anyway in order to claim the earned income tax credit, but about 20 percent of households eligible for the credit never claim it, and the very poorest families are not eligible for the full amount.

When it comes to receiving child tax credits, the IRS offers a portal for non-filers to submit claims. But the system is not mobile-friendly, and thus far, it is only offered in English. The IRS recently released step-by-step guides on using the non-filer tool in six languages, but instructions for accessing them are only available in English and Spanish.

Tax policy experts and community tax help groups noted both of those issues are barriers for their clients, who have had trouble navigating the portal.

“Right now, it’s a system that works really well and is super straightforward for moderate-income and upper- income families, and doesn’t work very well for lower-income families,” Elisa Minoff, a senior policy analyst at the Center for the Study of Social Policy and a leader of the Automatic Benefit for Children Coalition, said. “The North Star should be making this as automatic as possible so families don’t have to take affirmative steps to get the support they need.”

Non-filing families can struggle for a number of reasons — caregivers may be unaware that they qualify for the benefit or unable to figure out the technological component; families may not speak English or have consistent non-mobile internet access or, frankly, time in the day to figure the system out.

Graham O’Neill is the director of partnerships at the Campaign for Working Families, an organization that helps low-income people in Pennsylvania and New Jersey navigate the tax system and claim benefits. One of the biggest problems his clients have, he said, is when someone else — often due to a formal or informal shared custody arrangement — has already claimed the child as a dependent. They can appeal to the IRS, but doing so takes months.

“Life is complicated, especially if you’re a low-income person,” O’Neill said. “There’s a whole lot of situations in life that don’t fit neatly into the way the tax code structures a family.”

Kori Hattemer, the director of financial programs at Foundation Communities, a similar organization based in Austin, said she has clients who filed tax returns for the first time in 2020 in order to access stimulus benefits but have been unable to access them because of an IRS backlog. Many families have come needing help with completing the online portal.

“I feel like there’s a pretty low awareness about it,” Hattemer said. “If they make it permanent and it’s around for several years, it will become part of what people know and understand. But it’s very different than what people have done in the past.”

How can we make the child tax credit more accessible?

There is still time to close accessibility gaps, and to get distribution of the child tax credit right, or as right as possible.

While most parents will receive their credits in monthly installments of $300 per child for six months this year, and for an additional six months in 2022, parents can also receive the entire child tax credit during tax filing season if they sign up between now and then. That gives the IRS about nine months to bring non-filers into its systems.

Democrats are also working on a proposal to extend the child allowance, and they will have some benefits of hindsight as they do so. Filling the gaps that appear to be excluding non-filers can be done, but will take an all-hands-on-deck approach, involving Congress, the IRS, and local tax help groups.

One relatively easy solution would be to increase Volunteer Income Tax Assistance (VITA) funding so that local organizations can be as well-resourced as possible to help non-filer families. Democratic Senate aides told Vox that’s a solution they are exploring with the Senate Budget Committee.

VITA organizations can reach non-filers in ways the federal government might struggle to; for instance, O’Neill said his organization is working with the Pennsylvania state government to do child tax credit outreach at state benefit agencies, like TANF offices. Having in-person signups in the waiting rooms of SNAP, TANF, or WIC offices would put less onus on non-filer families.

Other researchers have suggested providing federal funding to have information or sign-ups at pediatricians’ offices and schools — particularly during back-to- school season.

Regardless of where contact with non-filers happens, Kris Cox, the deputy director of federal tax policy at the Center on Budget and Policy Priorities, said the IRS and local VITA partners need to be on the ground.

“The non-filer portal is really important for people who can navigate that type of form, but we know that there are families who will face barriers, whether that’s language, technical, fluency, disability, other things,” Cox said. “In-person assistance will be crucial.”

One idea advocates have thrown out is sending out federal navigators, much like Congress did with the Affordable Care Act, to get families registered. The IRS maintains zip code files to track who is receiving child tax credits, so navigators could be sent to areas with low disbursement rates. Another way to get more federal officials on the ground might be to increase funding for existing IRS tax system care centers, many of which have been shut down or are understaffed.

A third fix would be far less expensive but could require rethinking data privacy laws: mandating communication between benefits agencies like the Social Security Administration and the IRS.

A lot of non-filer families’ information is out there — it’s just in benefit agencies that do not communicate with the IRS, largely due to strict data privacy laws safeguarding tax information. But if those laws could be loosened slightly, or if benefit agencies could give families’ information to the IRS without receiving any information in return, then the IRS could send notices or register those families.

Senate Democratic aides said it’s a possibility they are exploring. In particular, they see potential to link CTC benefits to Supplemental Security Income benefits, whose recipients include low-income parents of children with disabilities. These benefits are sent out through the Social Security Administration but are only received by 1.7 percent of children. It’s not clear, however, that such a change would be able to pass into law and, even if it did, whether the IRS would be able to process all that new data.

“This is not a question of the IRS not having their heart or mind in the right place,” a Senate Democratic aide said. “It’s a question of capacity.”

The child tax credit expansion is new, so getting it to work perfectly will take time

Megan Curran, the director of policy at the Center on Poverty and Social Policy at Columbia University, said other countries have had child allowances on the books for decades, meaning they have had time to streamline the process: Sign-up comes at birth, with an annual renewal form in public schools. The US could do something similar, offering a sign-up form at the hospital at birth, same as Social Security.

Such a process might also pave the way for making the assistance an allowance rather than a tax credit, through the Social Security Administration — something many experts believe would make distributing funds easier.

“When you look at other countries, they have really easy-to-use websites,” Curran said. “They have different access points, they’re in the communities face to face. Obviously, through the tax system, it’s harder.”

In the absence of a complete restructuring, experts say that for any future benefits, the top factor in increasing participation is just time.

Elaine Maag, an income support program researcher at the Tax Policy Center, said research from the earned income tax credit shows that participation rates take off in a neighborhood when just one family familiar with the EITC moves into that neighborhood and begins talking about it.

“If I’m living in an apartment building with many families with children, and they start talking about this child tax credit and how they just received a payment, I would expect more families to wonder if they might be eligible for this payment as well,” Maag said.

Time may improve the child tax credit program if it is renewed, but in the meantime, non-filer families — and the IRS — will have to overcome challenges baked into the tax system, and the accessibility issues that come with them.

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